LeeHarvey
29th November 2008, 16:08
Red Power Armor:
World Eaters Blood Red:
Step 1: the Undercoat - Black
It goes without saying, your end finish depends heavily on how smooth your undercoat is. Personally I prefer to start with black instead of white. It requires more coats of paint to cover the black, but I find that the shadows that you can achieve through the proper use of blending and layering techniques makes all of the time worth it.
First (after primering a metal or resin model), spray your model with your preferred black paint. I myself use Testors Flat Black spray or Krylon Super-Flat Black spray. Both have a good consistency and are quite flat when dry. Also, neither have the habit that GW spray paints have of getting all "dusty" and rough.
If you use the new foundation paints, use Mechrite Red for your basecoat.(If not, the same techniques can be used with Scab Red but you won't need to thin it as much and it will require more coats). This you will want to thin out about 2:1 paint to water. Apply your first thin coat all over the model leaving the black in the panel lines and recesses. Do not apply the paint to any small areas that you want to paint a different color. The less paint you have on these spots the better the detail will show through later.
Apply more coats of the thinned Mechrite Red until you are satisfied with the coverage. Again, make sure these coats are thin for the sake of smoothness once the model is complete.
After your Mechrite is dry grab your pot of Red Gore. Mix some Red Gore with some Mechrite Red and a bit of water, about 3:1:1, and paint a thinned layer over all of the model except in the recesses where the deepest shadows will be. Continue to add layers of this mix until you are satisfied, though I will stress that the more layers you have, the thicker the paint will be and you could run the risk of destroying detail if your paint is not thin enough or if it is applied carelessly to areas of fine detail. Also, it's worth noting that the more layers you use while leaving the previous layer visible, the more of a blended 'soft' gradiation of colors you'll get. The thinner your layers are, the better this works.
Now it's time for a wash. Mix some Red Ink and Brown Ink, about 2:1, then thin it out one part ink mix to one part water. Apply this over the whole model being sure that the wash will collect in the recesses and panel lines.
After the wash you need to clean the model up a bit so, take Red Gore straight from the pot and mix in some water to your desired thinness. Again, apply thin layers to the model, I would recommend 2 at most as all you previous layers should have built up a nice solid red base. You can use this stage to accentuate the shadows by not painting over select areas where the wash has collected, or by painting over it with the thinnest of layers. Even thinner than what your normal layers should be, remember that the more water you use, the more transparent your paint will be on the model.
Next, get your Blood Red out mix it 1:1 with Red Gore and add water. Paint the areas where you are going to place your highlights. This layer shouldn't be an actual highlight layer, more of the base for the highlights so you'll want to cover more area with this than you will with the following layers. Every coat you add to the model should cover a smaller area than the previous one.
Once you are happy with the 'highlight base', move on to pure Blood Red.
Thin the Blood Red with water to a nice, easily flowing consistency and start to build up your highlights on all of the raised areas and the edges of armor panels. Again, the more layers you use while leaving the previous layer visible, the more of a blended 'soft' gradiation of colors you'll get.
Finally, Mix up some Blood Red and Blazing Orange, then add water to thin, and apply fine highlight to the very edges of the model. At this stage you can call the red done but if you want, to get a bright model, you can add one final, small highlight with straight Blazing Orange.
Unfortunately, I don't have any pics to put in here yet but I will, so stay tuned for further updates.
World Eaters Blood Red:
Step 1: the Undercoat - Black
It goes without saying, your end finish depends heavily on how smooth your undercoat is. Personally I prefer to start with black instead of white. It requires more coats of paint to cover the black, but I find that the shadows that you can achieve through the proper use of blending and layering techniques makes all of the time worth it.
First (after primering a metal or resin model), spray your model with your preferred black paint. I myself use Testors Flat Black spray or Krylon Super-Flat Black spray. Both have a good consistency and are quite flat when dry. Also, neither have the habit that GW spray paints have of getting all "dusty" and rough.
If you use the new foundation paints, use Mechrite Red for your basecoat.(If not, the same techniques can be used with Scab Red but you won't need to thin it as much and it will require more coats). This you will want to thin out about 2:1 paint to water. Apply your first thin coat all over the model leaving the black in the panel lines and recesses. Do not apply the paint to any small areas that you want to paint a different color. The less paint you have on these spots the better the detail will show through later.
Apply more coats of the thinned Mechrite Red until you are satisfied with the coverage. Again, make sure these coats are thin for the sake of smoothness once the model is complete.
After your Mechrite is dry grab your pot of Red Gore. Mix some Red Gore with some Mechrite Red and a bit of water, about 3:1:1, and paint a thinned layer over all of the model except in the recesses where the deepest shadows will be. Continue to add layers of this mix until you are satisfied, though I will stress that the more layers you have, the thicker the paint will be and you could run the risk of destroying detail if your paint is not thin enough or if it is applied carelessly to areas of fine detail. Also, it's worth noting that the more layers you use while leaving the previous layer visible, the more of a blended 'soft' gradiation of colors you'll get. The thinner your layers are, the better this works.
Now it's time for a wash. Mix some Red Ink and Brown Ink, about 2:1, then thin it out one part ink mix to one part water. Apply this over the whole model being sure that the wash will collect in the recesses and panel lines.
After the wash you need to clean the model up a bit so, take Red Gore straight from the pot and mix in some water to your desired thinness. Again, apply thin layers to the model, I would recommend 2 at most as all you previous layers should have built up a nice solid red base. You can use this stage to accentuate the shadows by not painting over select areas where the wash has collected, or by painting over it with the thinnest of layers. Even thinner than what your normal layers should be, remember that the more water you use, the more transparent your paint will be on the model.
Next, get your Blood Red out mix it 1:1 with Red Gore and add water. Paint the areas where you are going to place your highlights. This layer shouldn't be an actual highlight layer, more of the base for the highlights so you'll want to cover more area with this than you will with the following layers. Every coat you add to the model should cover a smaller area than the previous one.
Once you are happy with the 'highlight base', move on to pure Blood Red.
Thin the Blood Red with water to a nice, easily flowing consistency and start to build up your highlights on all of the raised areas and the edges of armor panels. Again, the more layers you use while leaving the previous layer visible, the more of a blended 'soft' gradiation of colors you'll get.
Finally, Mix up some Blood Red and Blazing Orange, then add water to thin, and apply fine highlight to the very edges of the model. At this stage you can call the red done but if you want, to get a bright model, you can add one final, small highlight with straight Blazing Orange.
Unfortunately, I don't have any pics to put in here yet but I will, so stay tuned for further updates.