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  1. #21

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    Mar 2010
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    Snow Bound:

    So to while away the weather front I did some work on the neck which I have to admit is coming out better than expected. I sheathed the coupling on 0.040 thousandths styrene to three layers and then proceeded to bevel the rear edges 45° as in the drawing.
    http://i.imgur.com/Z9duybo.jpg


    As you can see below there is quite a bit of cutting to get the 45° bevel in the front edge ............


    http://i.imgur.com/gZQcNh6.jpg



    but my 'Farmers file' was up to the task.

    http://i.imgur.com/BTujlxG.jpg


    The forward bevel needs to be refined but is okay for the moment while I make the inner neck mechanism so the head can be tilted down. My previous Warlord has this capability but the mechanism is very clunky and I am hoping to refine it on this model.

    http://i.imgur.com/TbMVdfC.jpg


    Finally I found this collar that will work very well in the scheme I have in mind for the side to side movement of the head and fits into the Emperor design quite well.

    http://i.imgur.com/Ofba1Op.jpg


    Can anyone guess the source of this wondeous bit of sculpting?

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  2. #22
    nonamewight's Avatar
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    Aug 2016
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    Snow days are always good days to work on projects.

    Is it a plastic/paper bowl?

    'We are the necrontyr. We are legion. We claim dominion of this world... Surrender and die.'
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  3. #23

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    Close, a 5.3 ounce Shoprite yogurt container. I plan to use a lot of recyclable plastic in the manufacture of this model.How well I succeed remains to be seen.

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  4. #24
    nonamewight's Avatar
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    I do something similar in my projects. I use old pringlez cans and oatmeal containers to make pipe ways and storage tanks.

    'We are the necrontyr. We are legion. We claim dominion of this world... Surrender and die.'
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  5. #25

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    2D vs 3D

    I'm getting way ahead of myself with this head assembly so I put the brakes on to pitch an update. After scraping my initial idea of how the head assembly can tip forward on the neck I came up with this solution which will give me a lot more cockpit room for the crew. There also is a poetic license taken by the artist who drew the front and side reliefs of the Command Bridge. The huge ear discs that contain the head tilting mechanism cannot function as drawn and are of different sizes in the drawing. Never mind though, I have a solution.

    I'll start with cutting the forward neck ring to allow the discs to mount flat to the sides of the neck.

    http://i.imgur.com/mvwGHMu.jpg


    Carving out an outer race for the gimbal head mount pad and gluing on the gimbal bases is what is shown here. The two 0.040th inch discs are 71 MM apart and 56 MM in diameter.

    http://i.imgur.com/gkvcxbH.jpg


    The bridge truss maintains the distance and keeps the gimbals square to each other and stabilizes the bases

    http://i.imgur.com/uFbVKve.jpg


    Bottom view showing the forward ring carved out to accommodate the gimbal bases.

    http://i.imgur.com/ZpFupBN.jpg


    Next, the manufacture of the gimbals mounts. (The area left black in the 2D drawing.)

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  6. #26

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    Mar 2010
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    Gimbals:

    Or Trunnions whatever, These truncated discs will support the head on the neck to allow it to look down in a purely theatrical way as a downward pointing camera would be just as effective but the menace of this skull staring down at it's victim is too good to pass up.

    http://i.imgur.com/TxBpE0G.jpg


    Above; the disc is a simple truncated construct featuring two circles 45,0 and 54,0 MM separated by 2,0 MM by 4,8 MM styrene spacers.

    http://i.imgur.com/fIfj5Yf.jpg


    Unfortunately I got the angle wrong so I have to re-sheath the bevel but that's not a big deal.

    http://i.imgur.com/J7JtoOQ.jpg


    Tomorrow I hope to be working on the cockpit.

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  7. #27

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    Mar 2010
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    The Visor:

    Allowing for the helmet I mounted the gimbals with extended visor mounts made of 0.015 thousandths sheet styrene. As I don't really have a plan for the cockpit, chin or gullet piece all this is subject to change but at least now I understand how the cheek pieces work with the gimbals.

    http://i.imgur.com/dybKoJX.jpg


    I suppose the best thing is to cut the helmet to see where it falls in relation to the ears (gimbals) and the amount of clearance required to allow the head to lower and raise.

    http://i.imgur.com/LEecGev.jpg


    Somehow I managed to guess right which moving part eclipses which and for that I am grateful.

    http://i.imgur.com/a8ra21q.jpg


    Later on this evening I'll cut the helmet but I need to relax a bit after this thoroughly draining exercise in design. Martini Time!!!!!

    Last edited by Blackadder; 18th March 2017 at 22:38.
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  8. #28

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    Helmet:

    My initial thought was to use a suitably shaped bottle to form the helmet but after experimentation I found that was unsatisfactory for my obsessive compulsive mindset. I opted instead for building up the helmet out of stratified layers of styrene and cutting the helmet out of the resulting block in much the same manner as I did for my Warlord Titan

    http://i.imgur.com/gxEB51B.jpg


    This also relieves me of the necessity of finding a suitable glue for mating the different sources of plastic......

    http://i.imgur.com/uAIDHK3l.jpg


    It's bad enough that I had already go through the identical thought processes in making my Warlord but to have not learned for my previous effort defies logic.

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  9. #29

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    Ready To Begin Shaping:

    The layering is complete and all needs be done is the shaping

    http://i.imgur.com/aK44D0O.jpg


    I made the helmet about an eighth inch over sized per inch to allow for carving and sanding

    http://i.imgur.com/axEuWUo.jpg


    Tomorrow I should be well along on the paring down to the rough dimensions.

    http://i.imgur.com/l0WOVlJ.jpg


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  10. #30

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    Mar 2010
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    First and Second Contour Cuts:

    Most of which are done on a stationary belt sander.

    http://i.imgur.com/7RO8KiC.jpg


    One more preliminary contour cut to make.....

    http://i.imgur.com/SVQpT3F.jpg


    The sides have to be rough sanded at about 45° before the finishing contour sanding.

    http://i.imgur.com/VYPbiO9.jpg


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  11. #31

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    Rough Shaping:

    Final rough shaping involves truing up the block to 90° then cutting a 45° bevel each side and finally two 22.5° bevels each side on top and sides.

    http://i.imgur.com/9DUyTiT.jpg


    Next (and this is the tricky part because it takes a bit of an eye for roundness) sanding off the excess in a controlled arc movement on the sanding belt.

    http://i.imgur.com/bdNKxBZ.jpg


    http://i.imgur.com/8vAqAXM.jpg


    http://i.imgur.com/W0ZiUMI.jpg


    so the helmet has a slightly flattened ovoid shape in cross section.

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