Painting & Modelling Q and A

[Mortis Angelus]

For SM eyes/lenses in general (maybe some gems too):
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/co...n=&aId=3400032

For a broken eye/lens I'd only shade it in darker colours, no glow effect on the helm around it and maybe add some very tiny cracks (grey or black, depends on the colour of the eye/lens)
But I never tried that, so maybe someone else has a better idea?

Maybe for a broken eye/lens paint it shades of grey rather than shades of whatever colour you'd normally do the lenses?

Thanks for the link, and the ideas guys! I'm thinking I'll do it like a regular eye, but with shades of grey (like Xarboth said) and then add Omega's cracks. If it turns out well enough I'll post a picture, so you guys can see what it looks like if you've ever thought about doing it.

[HEisKing]

So I'm paining my first set of Space Wolves, and I've followed all direction for prepping my models, but I am having issues with the second coat of 50/50 color mix.
It seems that the second coat is still very tacky after about 4 hours of dry time.
It's only on a few models not the whole group.
Should I Simple Green them and start over? Allow them to dry longer? I'm doing light coats to get the Armor base down using the directions for the Gaming Workshop website for painting Space Wolves.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[edmundblack]

Wait longer. And perhaps use thinner coats. Painting takes time, most of that is drying time. It gets more intuitive with practice. A good techniue I find is to prep something else, such as the bases whilst a big coat is drying.

[HEisKing]

Thanks a ton I'll check again tonight, and I'll use much lighter coats.

[Judea]

So I was at my game shop and I was checking out the 'eavy metal 2 brush paint set. Has anyone used that glaze stuff? Do you think GW will sell that stuff separately?

[Squidgy Snake]

I use vallejo glaze medium. It's great stuff for making paint more transparent when blending or layering and it's ssential when putting citadel colour paints in an airbrush too. Can't comment on GW glaze having never used it but it will probably do the same things to paint.

[HEisKing]

Hey guys, quick question...and very possibly a VERY stupid one.

Some of the color directions state a 50/50 mix, or a part to part mix.
What is the best way to measure these mixtures? Does GW make a tool?

Thanks
Sean

[Brother-Captain Sharp]

You can buy empty dropper bottles online or in hobby stores. Then you can just add the right amount of drops.

I just eyeball it myself.

[HEisKing]

You can buy empty dropper bottles online or in hobby stores. Then you can just add the right amount of drops.

I just eyeball it myself.

Cool!
Thanks for the pointers.

[Kornpatch]

It seems that i have problems with painting metal models. Is there a process you have to go through before painting the metal model?

[Salag]

It my be a basic thing to ask but are you undercoating your models correctly? A good undercoat of black or white helps paint stick to either metal OR plastic.
Other than that what paints are you using?

[Beeva]

Wash them first! Warm soapy water will do it. Same goes for finecast and resin models too.

During the moulding process the moulds are coated with a releasing agent to allow the models to seperate from the moulds more easily. This stuff naturally gets on to the models as well and can cause paint rub off or chip very easily indeed.

Maybe this is what you're having problems with?

[Architech]

simply put....you have to prime the metal, chaos black undercoat spray will serve this purpose to an extent. You need something for the paint to cling to, as it will not want to cling to the metal directly

[Vineheart01]

i got a simple one, where is a good place to get citadel paints? GW website is horrid for it....its either the same 8 or so colors or an over excessive bundles for far too many paints.

I can't find any anywhere unless theyre similar but not citadel paints

[Durandal]

i got a simple one, where is a good place to get citadel paints? GW website is horrid for it....its either the same 8 or so colors or an over excessive bundles for far too many paints.

I can't find any anywhere unless theyre similar but not citadel paints

?
Go to the "Paints and Tools" bar, then hit the "Citadel Paints" sub menu, then each individual paint (which you can add 1 by 1) is grouped by Base, Layer 1, Layer 2, Shade, Glaze, and "Technical". Barring that, any physical store that carries Citadel Paints.

[Architech]

There are no multipacks of paints really (just a few starter packs)...so as Durdandal said...just pick and choose

[Wicksy]

Well, if you dislike GW's layout, there's always the other distributor's depending on what part of the world you're from. You can also experiment with non-GW paints if you dislike them. Valeyo, P3, Reaper etc..

[SpectorKnight]

I recently spray-painted the contents of an entire Ork Battleforce with Citedal Chaos Black spraypaint (the kind in the can) and for some reason all of the models seem to have aquired a very gritty, scratchy feel. I don't know what went wrong. I've done this before for other figures and they came out fine. Did I get a bad can, or are other factors at work? What can I do to prevent this, and will painting them further bury the layer of grit? Help please.

[Architech]

could be any of a number of issues...spraying too close, spraying in improper climate, bad can...etc

Painting will not cover the grit if it is really noticeable...but if it's just a little, it might be fine

[SpectorKnight]

I try to keep the can about 12-15 inches away from the sprue when I'm spraying. Is that about standard? It seems to work for me usually. Maybe the temperature had something to do with it. The grit isn't super noticeable, only if you look very close. For the vehicles I don't actually mind, since Ork vehicles are bound to be pretty messy things, but I'm hoping I can prevent all the boyz from having a bad case of acne.